四眼橙橙 發表於 2009-2-22 22:31:02

全影相技巧

如題,小弟影左好多次,都駁唔到一幅好既全影相
我企係中間,轉腰,由右轉到左,
影出黎,都係駁唔到一幅好既相
唔知ching可唔可以分享下自己既心得呢~

ah_D 發表於 2009-2-22 22:53:23

最好落腳, 腳架有pan野功能最好.留意水平.
鏡頭焦距最好50mm左右.總之兩邊愈少變型愈好.
最好用手動對焦或自動對焦後改轉為手動, 不要改變任何曝光置定.
構圖要盡量避開一d會移動嘅物件.
要預留多d接駁位. 接駁位宜選一d簡單嘅位置.
如天,海,白牆. 地壇,重複直線呢d位就會好難駁

[ 本帖最後由 ah_D 於 2009-2-22 10:54 PM 編輯 ]

kunyu 發表於 2009-2-23 14:49:34

影全景相手持轉身扭腰拍,用手機或者 DC 仔(有內置 panorama )就得,用單反除非你真係對自己手定好有信心,同埋影好遠o既景物,咁或者都仲 work ,否則都係用腳架為上算,免得晒心機,至於用鏡頭方便,只要鏡頭質量好,超廣角都可以o既,冇問題,接駁軟件會幫你搞掂 ...

四眼橙橙 發表於 2009-2-23 15:16:16

但我我琴晚問過過fd
佢話最好係打直影,影住駁埋佢
咁咩既成功率高好多,係咪家?

kunyu 發表於 2009-2-23 17:19:50

接駁成率高同橫直度關係唔大,用直度較好主要原因係為了可以拍更多景物,樓主可以試o下將相機 set 好水平(例如影維港),就會發覺畫面有一半係海,實際能拍攝到的景物好少,如果用橫度,能夠拍到的景物會更少 ...

kelvin_lkm 發表於 2009-2-23 20:00:13

回覆 #1 四眼橙橙 的帖子

http://www.geocities.com/boobooboy55699/?20059?200728?200820?200923
:good: :good:
最基本既影相概念
:faint
小弟表達能力有限
後幾頁有講全景
好詳細下
唔明再問

BonBonBon 發表於 2009-2-23 20:25:33

你鏡頭轉動時最好留意nodel point. 否則相片透視不一, 你就駁唔到.

arsir 發表於 2009-3-4 17:31:59

用直倒影, 係因為要避開橫倒既時候, 左右兩邊既變形, 同埋好似kunyu  所講既問題, 用中間既對焦點同現場環境, 去做水平, 由左至右影, 影既時候, 每張相都起碼要有1/3 既地方重疊.最好先用手動測光, 每一張相個爆光量要一樣, 手動設定wb, 唔好用自動wb, 唔係夾埋一齊既時候會唔同顏色.

留意若果有車or 人行既環境, 影既時候就要小心, 唔係到最後夾番出黎, 會出現每一張相都有同一架車同人既現象.

開始我都用一d 軟件去整, 最後發覺用 " Windows Live 影像中心 " , 原來都可以做倒全景相片, 而且d 夾位重好靚.

上面所講係無腳架同全景架既時候, 可以用既方法, 當然最好係set 好腳架, set 好水平, 同全景架, 搵左個nodel point先影.

RRS 果度有教點影, 佢D 器材好貴, 不過原理都係一樣, http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/index.html

[ 本帖最後由 arsir 於 2009-3-4 05:38 PM 編輯 ]

lyn 發表於 2009-3-4 18:18:51

介紹一個software~好好用唔使用腦慢慢駁!一堆input哂入去就得!wow:good:
叫做auto stitch
http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html

鍾無艷 發表於 2009-3-5 01:09:35

樓主試下次試下以盡量以鏡頭前組鏡片位置為旋轉既圓心,



穩陣啲就用腳架配可獨立調較水平既波頭

wyk_penguin 發表於 2009-3-5 01:32:48

As long as you have sufficient overlap between photos and rotate around the nodal point, it doesn't matter if you use a tripod. The nodal point is different for each focal length (and if taken seriously, every focus distance). It is usually somewhere in the middle of the lens although it can be in front of the lens esp. for longer focal lengths. I find that a pano bracket is too much work. I locate the nodal point by looking into the VF and panning around different centers to find the one that doesn't give parallax. It's very fast to do that if you are holding your camera instead of loosening and tightening a hundred knobs on your pano bracket.

I always tell others to stand with one foot directly under the nodal point and walk around that foot using it as an axis. The movement of the nodal point usually small enough this way. If you turn your waist/head, the nodal point will travel in a big circle around your neck.

I have a lot of pano shots and I don't own a tripod. For scenery, a tripod is not needed and I use my Horizon 202 for panos with objects closer than 3m. The photomerge function of Photoshop is so powerful now that you can merge very crappy photos into seamless panos. Of course, you would not get a mathematically correct projection of the space if your nodal point moves, but to get a convincing pano for normal use, a bit of movement is alright. I take photos, I am not a surveyor.

Just to show that you can do it without a tripod. Here is a 7 image pano made with a 10mm lens (16mm equiv.) from my 30D handheld merged in photoshop. My dorm room is a bit messy. The bed and the chair were less than 1m from me and the pano is almost, in not greater than 180 degrees.

[ 本帖最後由 wyk_penguin 於 2009-3-5 01:54 AM 編輯 ]
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